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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 14800ST from 1994

Gerald Genta created the Royal Oak model in 1971 at the request of Georges Golay, Audemars Piguet’s general manager at the time. This debut, which shook up the world of luxury watchmaking at a time when the industry was in bad shape, appears like a real success from the start, but not all stars were aligned at the time. The 5402 model, the first and most famous version of the Royal Oak, surprised watch collectors at the time with its innovative design, which included a 39MM case in one block, an octagonal bezel that was instantly recognizable, and a full metal bracelet that is still considered an icon of watchmaking and helped the brand become even more well-known. The hexagonal bezel, with its eight white gold screws and evident waterproof gasket, is the Royal Oaks defining feature. Deep-sea divers’ helmets were a major source of influence for Genta’s design. Later in life, he would declare that it was the watch design that he was most proud of, and it is an outstanding one. The case’s structure is quite intricate, with a variety of lines and finishes. Even with today’s sophisticated technologies, the watch remains one of the most difficult to restore. White gold was used to make the first prototypes since it is considerably simpler to deal with when constructing such complex casings. Commercialized in 1994, this version is the first Royal Oak with a leather strap. This model bears the same proportions than a regular 14790ST with a 36MM case. The leather strap comes with a folding clasp. The watch is powered by a 2225 caliber.

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